超越二級酒莊的右岸明星 • The Wines of Canon La Gaffeliere 【 2003 • 2012 】Offer 【Canon La Gaffeliere 就像是現今時代的美女,具美貌、智慧、堅持自己的主見和想法,獨立的性感於一身】
超越二級酒莊的右岸明星 – Canon La Gaffeliere 有人曾經形容說:「Château Canon La Gaffeliere就像是現今時代的美女,具美貌、智慧、堅持自己的主見和想法,獨立的性感於一身。」
如果聊到那些波爾多令人敬佩的豪門貴族,von Neipperg家族不可不提。在波爾多,Von Neipperg 家族一直保持著絕佳的品質和聲望,同時擁有或投資了左右岸一些最為優秀的酒莊。這其中包括 Canon La Gaffeliere 這樣頂級傳統名莊,也有La Mondotte 這樣,具有代表性的車庫酒莊。
Canon La Gaffeliere位在聖愛美濃,是國內酒迷熟知的波爾多右岸酒莊。它與另一家 Chateau La Gaffeliere,同是莊主Comte Stephan von Neipperg 的產業,且這二家都升為一等特級Premiers Grands Crus Classes B,現今規範中Premiers Grands Crus Classés 總共18家酒莊而已,可說是精英中的精英酒莊。
Stephan von Neipperg 本身是莊主,也是釀酒師!喜歡別人稱他「農夫」,對外都自稱自己是「農夫」,他靠他的雙手一步一腳印,真正走入葡萄園與酒窖! 早期應用先進的釀酒技術改善酒質,像是微氧化(Micro-Oxygenation,簡稱MO)就是其中之一,他的酒有著相當良好的集中性:黑松露、黑莓、茶葉、黑醋栗、黑櫻桃、烘烤草本香草和西洋杉,成熟而富有魅力,尾韻更是綿長。近來,他在Canon La Gaffeliere採取全面有機耕作,更在2014年獲得有機認證。
地理條件來看,Canon La Gaffeliere的葡萄園位於聖愛美濃鎮的外南方小坡,另一家右岸車庫酒莊 Chateau Ausone就在旁邊,二家葡萄園都拜南向坡之賜,葡萄受光良好。至於土壤類型則有粘土、石灰岩、沙質粘土等,種植比例大約是Merlot 55% 與Cabernet Franc 40%,Cabernet Sauvignon 10%。其中石灰岩土壤善於吸熱非常適合Merlot,Cabernet Franc 更需要陽光,南向坡陽光受熱相當平均,特別是高比例的Cabernet Franc,讓它的酒在勁道中,富含花香和辛香料風味,剛好可彌補 Merlot 有時過於圓潤,甚至太豐腴的口感。
The Wines of Canon La Gaffeliere 2003 Offer
葡萄樹平均年齡為45年,葡萄樹根扎深於粘土中,充分表現風土特色。葡萄採用手工採摘,在去梗前後進行兩次分揀,以無破皮程式,分揀後由傳送帶運輸。根據年份的不同,葡萄在有溫控的木釀酒桶中釀製18~26天,採用汽棒式壓酒帽方式萃取。蘋果酸乳酸發酵,80%~100%新橡木桶中進行陳釀,過程保留那些細膩的酒腳,陳釀15~20個月。不同的年份,如有必要才對葡萄酒進行澄清和過濾。
James Suckling Tasting Notes:Lots of blackberry, vanilla and cherry on the nose. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Well-structured. Solid wine here. Best after 2010. 3,755 cases made.
Robert Parker Tasting Notes: Lots of Asian soy, licorice and Christmas fruitcake notes intermingled with notions of red and black fruits and spice box emerge from this dark plum/garnet-colored (with just a bit of pink at the edge), medium to full-bodied, opulent, round, juicy, hedonistic 2003. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years.
Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere的葡萄酒擁有完美的結構,優雅的品質,口感令人回味無窮,印證這全新的釀酒理念。Stephan von Neipperg表示「可以說這是一款智慧型葡萄酒,有著細膩酒質、鮮明的輪廓,帶有果香與花香,另還有隱約的灌木叢氣息,細緻精巧,讓人極大的享受!」
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The Wines of Canon La Gaffeliere 2012 Offer
葡萄樹平均年齡為45年,葡萄樹根扎深於粘土中,充分表現風土特色。葡萄採用手工採摘,在去梗前後進行兩次分揀,以無破皮程式,分揀後由傳送帶運輸。葡萄在有溫控的木釀酒桶中釀製23天,採用汽棒式壓酒帽方式萃取。蘋果酸乳酸發酵,70%~100%新橡木桶中進行陳釀,過程保留那些細膩的酒腳,陳釀18個月
Wine Spectator Tasting Notes This has a lovely core of pure, fresh, well-defined boysenberry, blackberry and plum fruit, which glides beautifully over polished alder and vanilla notes while hints of violet and anise fill in on the finish. A lovely whiff of tobacco chimes in at the very end. This should be fun to cellar. A big wine that goes with the flow of the vintage and doesn’t try to overdo it. Best from 2018 through 2027. 4,167 cases made. –JM
Robert Parker Tasting Notes: Proprietor Comtes von Neipperg has done an incredible job with this estate, turning things around from a vegetal, diluted and undernourished wine in the 1970s and 1980s to something that has gotten stronger and strong ever since 1988. The dense ruby/purple 2012 offers pure blackcurrant and black cherry fruit along with some notes of Christmas spices and earth. It is full-bodied and opulent, with light tannins in the finish. This is a beauty of impeccable balance, great purity and texture. Kudos to von Neipperg, who rarely ever seems to make a mistake. Anticipated maturity: now-2030. The final blend tips the scales at 13.5% from an equal-part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere的葡萄酒擁有完美結構,優雅的品質,口感令人回味無窮,圓潤而厚實的黑加侖子、少許香料如甘草、胡椒,口感有如絲絨般幼滑!
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