永恆的 Bartolo Mascarello – 有些 Barolo 我真希望他永遠不會變。 不是傳統與新派,大桶與小桶的問題。而是這麼” 真 “的人﹕Maria Teresa Mascarello —- Bartolo 的女兒Ms. Giulio
義大利Barolo的迷人之處, 在於年輕時有波爾多的厚實架構, 陳年後就發展出如同布根地的細緻優雅… Bartolo的Barolo, 更是傳統派中的翹楚 …
The wines of Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2009 & 2010 / Piedmont / Italy Offer (義大利頂尖2009 & 2010年) – 有生之年必嘗的巴羅洛酒莊
自 Bartolo 的父親 Giulio Mascarello(1895-1981) 到 Bartolo Mascarello(1926-2005),再到目前當家Bartolo的獨生女Maria Teresa Mascarello,雖歷經世代變遷,但堅持Barolo傳統釀酒的方法與哲理,始終絲毫未曾改變,如此的「冥頑不靈」,卻也打造出Cantina Bartolo Mascarello成為最偉大的酒莊之一。
Mascarello家族釀酒的歷史最早可以追溯到Giulio Mascarello的父親-Bartolomeo Mascarello(1862-1952),他曾經長期擔任當地釀酒合作社Cantina Sociale di Barolo的釀酒師,一直到1920年代,該合作社因當時右派法西斯政府因懼怕人民結黨集社為由而下令關閉。剛從第一次世界大戰戰後返鄉的Giulio Mascarello,見父親任事的合作社面臨日益艱困的局勢,遂從1918年逐步規劃成立了自己的酒莊(當時酒莊名為Cantina Mascarello,一直到1985年由於避免與同莊另一名莊 Giuseppe Mascarello混淆,Bartolo Mascarello開始加入了自己的名字成為現在的Cantina Bartolo Mascarello),在Giulio 胼手胝足的努力之下,酒莊逐漸建立起名聲,除了供給傳統交易的外套柳編籃之大型玻璃甕裝酒之外,他開始發售 給一些私人客戶,開始有著穩定的收入之後,後來陸續購入了幾塊位於Barolo村的Cannubi、San Lorenzo、Rue和La Morra村的R ocche等頂級葡萄地塊,加上原先位於Monrobiolo 的0.8公頃,讓酒莊擁有了將近5公頃的葡萄地塊,開始了”老天爺給我們什麼,我們就釀什麼 ! “
老爺子晚年病魔纏身,當女兒 Maria Teresa正式接手酒莊時,他迫使女兒發誓此生都不會使用法國小橡木桶釀造那種被他稱為「carpenter」(木匠)的葡萄酒。為了確保諾言的實行,生前還特地購買了大量的斯洛維尼亞大橡木桶,直至酒窖里每一個可能的角落都被他塞滿,再也沒有空間容得下哪怕一個法國小橡木桶
Bartolo Mascarello 一年只釀三萬瓶年產量,目前只能給固定老客戶,縱使需求劇增,但Teresa 的堅持下,釀酒的數量,至今從沒有改變過,到現在為止,酒莊開給客戶的發票,還是Teresa自己親手寫的,她就是這麼”真”的人!!
The wines of Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2009 – Robert Parker : 94+分 & James Suckling: 95分
Robert Parker Tasting Note : The 2009 Barolo (aged three years in botte grande and one year in bottle) opens with a crystalline, ruby color and shows extreme focus and precision. Rosehip, forest berry, wild mint, lightly toasted pine nut, dried ginger and underbrush all appear on the ever-changing bouquet. The wine is extremely finessed and silky on the close with beautiful menthol freshness at the end. In Barolo tradition, fruit was normally sourced from many vineyards. The concept of single vineyards is relatively new. In keeping with tradition, this Barolo sees fruit from the Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche di La Morra vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. (年產量8,100瓶)
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The wines of Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2010 – Robert Parker : 96分 & Wine Enthusiast: 99分 & Wine Spectator: 97分
Robert Parker Tasting Notes: The 2010 Barolo is a singularly elegant expression that benefits from extremely long maceration time (up to 54 days) and a non-interventionists’ winemaking philosophy. The wine is superb in its elegance and finesse that caresses the palate in the most delicate and ethereal manner imaginable. Small fruit tones are enhanced by ash, crushed mineral, licorice and dried mint. Because of changes in how Barolo can be labeled, the wine no longer carries the names of the four single-vineyards that make up the traditional blend for this wine (Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue and Rocche di La Morra). Instead, this historic wine is now labeled straightforward “Barolo.” Drink: 2017-2018. (年產量7,500瓶)
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