唯有壓低自己身段,才能展現自我中的不平凡! Albert Grivault Bardet 向世人訴說著Meursault 美麗優雅的歷史!
在西元1875年布根地的 Albert Grivault ,從小就開始接手父母留下來的小小葡萄園,他親耕親作完全不假手他人,每當他被農耕事務壓得喘不過氣時,當時才19歲的他, 堅定望向遠方梅索村(Meursault)市政廳的五彩瓦屋頂,堅定自語誓必一定要闖出自己的一片天! 過了四年後他終於成功買下入梅索村中最為人覬覦的Clos des Perrières(現已列為一級葡萄園),這時 Domaine Albert Grivault 正式展開他的釀酒人生!
十九世紀末時葡萄根瘤芽蟲病肆虐,法國絕大多數葡萄樹在劫難逃,經濟景況極差,許多葡萄農開始拋售葡萄園,Grivault 於是趁機並分三次才將面積0.95公頃的Clos des Perrières 購入完成拼圖,使成為本莊獨佔園至今。為了聚資以維持園務能進行順暢,Grivault 在西元1888年於法國南方的貝茲耶城(Béziers)創設蒸餾廠,蒐購當地多品種的葡萄酒用以蒸餾貝茲耶精釀白蘭地(Fin Béziers),由於酒品暢銷,也讓他賺入人生第一桶金。但由於不堪經年南北奔波操勞,曾經腰桿硬挺、幹勁十足的青年格禮弗,終在1909年油盡燈枯與世長辭,享年五十三歲。
Grivault 當年育有兩女,全部都嫁給醫生,但因膝下無男生可以繼承,所以有段時間葡萄園外租給佃農耕作釀酒,直到西元1961年才將葡萄園重新拿回,並由 Grivault 的外孫與外孫女自行釀酒,釀酒大任主要由莊主Michel Bardet 負責,在西元1970年代初,布根地大部分酒莊仍未備有裝瓶設備,當時本莊在釀酒後,均整桶賣給俄裔法籍的葡萄酒作家兼酒商艾勒斯‧利秦(Alexis Lichine,1913-1989,曾是Château Prieuré-Lichine的業主),接著以卡車載運裝滿酒的橡木桶,越過險峻的法國中央高地運抵波爾多裝瓶轉賣,這種情況持續到最後西元1975年,這也是 Michel Bardet 人生最大改革,停止整桶賣酒,開始自己在於酒莊裝瓶、極力提升酒質的首年份!!
Domaine Albert Grivault 可謂是 Meursault 村最偉大的酒廠之一, 其實十九世紀時,梅索白酒之名望不僅與普里尼-蒙哈榭齊名,甚而因質素拔尖的Meursault Premier Cru Les Perrières. 而讓當時的布根地葡萄酒專家拉瓦勒(M. Lavalle)在其1855年所著《金丘優等葡萄園與偉大葡萄酒歷史暨統計資料》(Histoire et Statistiques de la Vigne et des Grands Vins de la Côte d’Or)文獻中為文讚道:「Les Perrieres白酒口感醇美細膩,芬馥特出,可輕易陳上三、四十年,除了頂尖的Montrachet Grand Cru白 酒外,我不認為有比 Les Perrieres更極品精鍊的白酒」。
Clos des Perrière s位於 Les Perrières一級園區之最重要的核心,週邊有1.5公尺高的石牆圍繞,可說是整個 Meursault 的極至精華葡萄園,許多專家咸認它具有特級園風土。據莊主Michel Bardet 表示,由於Clos des Perrières 為其獨佔園,村內其他酒農因妒生恨,不願見本莊鶴立雞群,故每當他申請複核成為特級園時,此案每每在梅索的市議會階段就被打了回票,故而這塊特級園水準的良園,始終只被列級在一級園(Premier Cru),因而Meursault 村並無特級葡萄園(Grand Cru)。
莊主Michel Bardet 已高達七十高齡,氣質風度翩翩,像是一位長者,訴說著Meursault 優雅的歷史,有別於其它布根地酒農保守心態。即始Domaine Albert Grivault 今日早已不用名氣賣酒,Michel Bardet 還是一樣每年參加在巴黎所舉行的「法國農產品總競賽」,且成為葡萄酒競賽組裡的獲獎常客,其2003 Clos des Perrières便榮獲金牌獎。何因?「唯有壓低自己身段,年年讓眾家評審以盲飲方式、不受酒標與酒莊的名氣影響,無私評斷,才能顯現自己酒質出眾」!
Domaine Albert Grivault
Bourgogne Blanc “ Clos du Murger” & Meursault “ Clos du Murger” & Meursault 1er Cru “ Clos des Perrieres ” & Pommard 1er Cru ” Clos Blanc” “ Climats ”
Offer
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The wines of Domaine Albert Grivault Bourgogne Blanc “ Clos du Murger” 2014 Offer (Bourgogne Clos du Murger 葡萄園 – 2014白酒好年 )
Tasting Notes: This is a very pure, stylistic wine with great complexity and finesse. It is amazing for a Bourgogne, but as mentioned above, it may one day be a Meursault. For now it is a great buy. Light yellow in color the wine has a lovely floral citrus perfume with a tinge of pineapple. It has great style and finesse with lovely floral, citrus, mineral tinged flavors accented by faint hints of pineapple and has a lovely, crisp finish. This is irresistibly delicious Big and rich, yet with some acidity underneath the butter- and vanilla-tinged peach and melon. Grapefruit on the fresh finish .Outstanding Best Buy
The Albert Grivault Estate has six hectares of vines and 6 different controlled appellations, five on Meursault and one on Pommard. Renowned for the famous Clos des Perrières, this estate is definitely one of the sizes of the Meursault appellation. Michel Bardet is a winemaker who produces wines of guard.
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The wines of Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault “ Clos du Murger” 2014 Offer ( Meursault Clos du Murger 葡萄園 – 2014白酒好年 )
Tasting Notes: Light yellow in color this Meursault has a light yellow color and a mineral tinged citrus perfume with hints of roasted hazelnuts. It is flavorful, rounded and supple with citrus, mineral nuances and hints of pineapple and roasted hazelnuts. Crisp with and citrus mineral tinge on the finish this is a really lovely Meursault – Outstanding
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The wines of Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru “ Les Perrieres ” 2009 Offer ( Meursault 一級 Les Perrières 葡萄園 )
Tasting Notes: This is a gorgeous wine with great purity and style. It is light yellow in color and has a gorgeous floral perfume with hints of mineral and citrus and a faint kiss of spice. It is very elegant and has lots of flavor and finesse. Flavors of white peach and citrus are accented by floral nuances and there is a crisp underlying minerality on the finish. This should age beautifully – Outstanding Plus
Les Perrières是Meursault 最出名的一級園,常常被認為達到了特級園白葡萄酒的水準。Michel Bardet 說:「這裡土層深度可達到15到20米,主要是鈣質層和黏土層。葡萄根下扎很深,並且橫向發展。這塊葡萄地塊有極好的調節水分的能力,產出的酒充滿礦物氣息,可說是需要陳年時間和特級園酒一樣長,即14~16個月,不進行過濾清。和特級園酒一樣,使用50%新桶,有著同樣的細膩酒質和迷人的香氣!
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The wines of Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru “ Clos des Perrieres “ 2012 Offer ( Meursault 一級 Clos des Perrières 葡萄園 )
Tasting Notes: This is a great wine in the making. All it needs is time. The color is light yellow and there is a great mineral tinged perfume with floral citrus nuances. Racy and structured with lots of minerality, this is a wine with lots of intensity that is very long on the finish. Just now it needs decanting before drinking to begin to open. Patience is required here, but the rewards should be well worth it – Outstanding/Exceptional Potential
本莊獨佔園,面積0.95公頃,土質組成為46%黏土、30%壤土、24%砂質土。樹齡約20~25年,平均每公頃產量為4,300公升。整體而言釀法傳統簡單:手工採收後,直接榨汁,依酒質發展狀況,會在發酵與培養期間偶爾進行攪桶,僅使用20~30%新桶培養。中度金黃晶亮,聞有核桃、可頌麵包、蜂蜜香料麵包、蜜桃與蜂蜜氣味,口感圓潤,具香料調(甘草與迷迭香),架構、酸度與均衡俱佳,中後段果香集中迷人,韻長,以礦物質、洋梨口味軟糖、甘草與蕈菇氣韻!
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Pommard 產區: Clos Blanc 只有小小的0.89公頃, 連1公頃都不到,可說是產量極小,樹齡平均約35~40歲,每公頃產量約3,800公升, 在橡木桶中培養13-18個月,清透紅寶石酒色,聞有蒸餾櫻桃烈酒、青苔、甘草與櫻桃的甜美氣息。啖有紅漿果、甘草與礦物質風味,架構與單寧尚緊,後段以覆盆子果醬與甘草風味引人,尾韻佳!
The wines of Domaine Albert Grivault Pommard 1er Cru” Clos Blanc” 2011 Offer ( Pommard 一級 Clos Blanc 葡萄園 – “ 紅酒 ”)
Tasting Notes: This vineyard, located in Pommard, is planted to Pinot Noir. It is called “Clos Blanc” as it used to be planted to Chardonnay. Look for a nice balance of spice, dark fruit and a gamey note. Elegant for Pommard, more feminine than masculine, showing breeding and class and elegance along with its slightly Pommard-esque edge. This vineyard is planted next to Montrachet and they have applied for a Grand Cru status.
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The wines of Domaine Albert Grivault Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc 2013 Offer ( Pommard 一級 Clos Blanc 葡萄園 – “ 紅酒 ”)
Tasting Notes: Spicy nose with aromas of red berries bramble. Ample and fruity mouth on a dashing fruit. This cuvee has beautiful mouthfeel, with the final flourishes having fruity aromas of black cherry with pretty smoky notes
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regards,
玖德貿易有限公司 Wine Vertu .Co.,Ltd
吳嘉興 Vincent Wu
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